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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.